Crossing the Exe: Starcross Ferry

The boat pulls away from Starcross pier, that old Victorian landing stage jutting into the water like a forgotten platform. You spot the Brunel-era Atmospheric Railway viaduct straight off, its brick arches a nod to 1840s experiments that puffed air through pipes to haul trains without steam. The crossing cuts right through the River Exe’s mouth, where tides shift sands into patterns that draw waders like turnstones and oystercatchers, their beaks stabbing at kelp for crabs.

Over on the Exmouth side, the harbour walls shelter fishing boats, and the beach stretches out under Jurassic cliffs, the red rock layers a reminder of 200 million years baked into the landscape.

This route has shuttled folk since the 13th century, when the Earl of Devon struck deals for passage rights. Today’s service, run by the same family since 1985, keeps it simple: a sturdy catamaran slicing the current, open to the spray if you pick the front seats.

Cyclists often hop on here, folding the Exe Estuary Trail into their rides, though the steps down to the jetty mean a bit of hefting. Walkers link it to the South West Coast Path, dodging the long slog around Topsham Marshes.

In summer, the same outfit runs bay cruises from Starcross, chugging past Dawlish’s black-tie rocks for glimpses of dolphins arcing through the waves.

Locals use it to nip between villages, grabbing fish and chips in Exmouth or a pint by the Starcross yacht club.

For newcomers, it unpacks the estuary’s rhythm: the mudflats that feed curlews at low tide, the seals basking on buoys, the freight trains rumbling parallel on the Avocet Line. One recent run caught eight dolphins shadowing the hull, a rare treat that had passengers craning over rails. The water’s churn can splash the deck, so layers beat singlets, even under blue skies.

Reviews paint a straightforward picture. TripAdvisor users rate it 3.9 out of 5, praising the views and value, with families noting how kids take to the boat’s sway and the crew’s resident dog. Some gripe about the Starcross steps, steep and unrelenting for prams or heavy loads, and the odd crew grumpiness under pressure.

Timings sync loosely with trains, but mismatches leave waits. Overall, it’s the estuary’s pulse: reliable, revealing, with wildlife bonuses that stick.